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FAQ
How are your art pieces constructed? I start with a piece of ¾ inch (or 4-4) red oak (though occasionally I will use other hardwoods) which is planed until it is even and smooth, occasionally down to 5/8ths inch. I glue a Celtic design on the board and cut it out with a scroll saw—quick to say, but the process takes many hours. At that point, I customarily stare off into the distance, or take an afternoon nap, and wait for the Goddess of Inspiration to arrive, for each piece is an original. That leads to the next question: Where do you get your ideas? After the goddess has visited and made her suggestion, I put the design into an original representation, whether it be a plaque, a wall hanging, a stand, or an altar. All the parts are held together with dowels and glue. Metal fasteners, like nails, screws and staples, are not used, nor are mitered corners, for post and lintel construction was traditional in the ancient world. So, I’m a purist! Expel me! And I do not use plans or templates. To do so would be easy, but dull. I want no two pieces to ever be exactly alike. That would be manufacturing. And I’m too old to start a factory and mass produce products to mega-marts. Some designs, like the Celtic High Cross or The Mother Goddess spiral, are popular and are repeated in many settings. But each setting is different, if only in a small way. Therefore, every Celtic piece that comes from my workshop is an original and a one-of-a-kind. I am reminded of Walt Whitman, who in his poem "Leaves of Grass" proclaimed, "I am large, I contain multitudes." Which is to say, there are no discernable boundaries or limits to creativity. How are they finished? The pieces are sanded down to 220 grit and sealed with linseed oil. Then various sections may be stained with either red mahogany or walnut, depending on the effect to be achieved. All are sprayed with a thin coat of satin lacquer, allowed to dry, then hand rubbed with a paste wax applied with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and buffed with a soft cloth. This old-time process is called "elbow grease" and it is the only way to get a fine, durable finish on wood. The process seals the pores of the wood and provides a long lasting sheen. I don’t know why you would, but you could sit your sweaty beer glass on the wood and it would leave no stain. How do you take care of the finish? Dust it occasionally. Then, perhaps once a year, if the luster appears to be dulling because of normal exposure to the environment, apply a thin coat of quality paste wax over the piece and immediately hand buff it with a soft cloth before it dries. Spray waxes should be avoided. They were developed by chemical engineers to free the modern housewife from having to use "elbow grease." The ladies were encouraged to spray and walk away. But no professional craftsman would recommend any spray wax, for they contain chemicals which eat through the finish. Paste wax and a modicum of elbow grease will maintain the sheen of the piece for as long as you live. What about dust accumulating in the holes? Perhaps once a year, blow out the holes with a can of compressed air, like you use on your computer. Do you, the artist, sign your pieces? Yes. Every piece is signed, and every piece ships with a blurb which explains what the designs mean. If, however, you don’t want the signature, go to a hardware store and buy a small bottle of Goo-Gone and wipe it off. The finish will not be affected. What are the altars for? Any altar is only a focal point for concentration or meditation. Altars are not, per se, associated with any particular group, sect, or religion—either Christian or pagan. Altars are for one’s personal and private use. The altars I make are usually two or three piece sets. They are designed to be flexible because they have free space around them upon which one may place personal and private objects: pictures, candles, incense, totems. It is your Altar! Personalize it! Do you have a guarantee policy? Yes! I guarantee the purchase you make will meet or exceed your expectations. If it does not, return the piece in its original condition with prepaid postage and your purchase price will be refunded immediately and without question. Do you do special orders? Rarely, and then only under certain liberal conditions. For me to try and figure out what you are visualizing in your mind from the descriptive words you use is stressful, fraught with difficulties, and doomed to failure most of the time. Hence, I avoid it. However, so long as the words like and similar are emphasized, fully accepted by you, and completely within my control, yes, I will do special orders in a timely fashion. For example, if you want a Celtic High Cross in a stand with squiggly endless knots on the side, I will do it. So long as the details are left to me. If you are not satisfied with the product you receive, please refer to the guarantee policy directly above. What is "checking?" Wood appears to be solid , but actually it expands and contracts when the temperature and humidity change--which is a constant in every environment. Sometimes during that process a section that contains a hitherto hidden weakness will develop a "check," or split. There's no way of predicting where it will happen, and no way to prevent it. That's the bad news. The good news is that it happens rarely with my pieces--but it can happen with any piece of wood. The further good news is that in almost every case a careful and judicious application of wood putty of the appropriate hue will make the split invisible. And once it has split in that spot, it's all over. It can't do anything more.
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